Breakfast at Tamu Tutong

Let’s get one thing straight, it’s certainly not Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The Tutong tamu is, well, a market. But that’s what’s great about it, there’s plenty to eat, and a lot to see.

Kuey tiaw basah

Here’s the drill: Me mates arrive at least 30 minutes later than promised, we make our way to the very last table on the outer side, at the last stall run by “Nyonya”, and we order her Kuey Tiaw Basah, flat rice noodles with creamy eggy sauce. It’s to die for!

Of course you could also order the Soto from the last stall on the opposite side – not the famous Soto Hj Tuah, but next to it. (A mindbogglingly suicidal decision to open here by all accounts, but this stall can hold its on, in all fairness.) This soto has a very Malay taste to it. By “Malay” I mean the spices used are rather distinctive, you could taste the Star anise/ Bunga lawang, the Clove/ Cangkih, the Cinnamon/ Kayu Manis, the Pelaga/ Cardamon in the broth, all typical Malay spices.


And the same stall also does some awesome Kuih Malaya.

Kopi O & Kuih Malaya

Our drinks are usually from the Nyonya’s stall. She does make really good Kopi O, ABC, Puspa and Cendol.

We don’t normally order from the stalls in between, although they do have their regular clients. That should suggest their food are decent, I suppose. The legendary Soto Hj Tuah I mentioned earlier is always a favourite, though personally, I prefer the Soto next door. There’s the Nasi Ayam stall, that’s good too. And next to it is a stall run by a Bu Hajah we call “Maci’ Crossword Puzzle” ~ because she’s always sat there doing crossword puzzles, or pretending to. We don’t really know what she sells ~ Alphabet soup? Wahaha becali… But seriously, what does she sell ah?

Generally speaking, you’re allowed to sit in one section and order from pretty much any stall, but you do get a sense of territoriality between the stall operators, but that’s hardly surprising, is it? You have to feel sorry for the poor waiters who are bringing the food nervously to your table from across the court – probably in anticipation of a sudden flying kick to the face by the Maci’ Crossword who’s keenly guarding her space. It’s unlikely to happen but it would be interesting if it did.

But there’s plenty to see to keep your entertained while you’re there, as it is.

Amongst other things, you get to see Parking idiots…

… and “interesting” hairstyles… hmmm.

Guy in green: "Just had a haircut by Edward Scissorhands. U like?". Guy in blue: "Ermm..." *Shock horror look on his face is priceless.


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